And along the way, I’ve developed some awesome tips and tricks for gallery wall ideas. A good gallery wall can add so much life and interest to a living room, dining room, bedroom, or den! That said, I get it-hanging a gallery wall can feel a little intimidating.īut don’t fear: I’ve hung so many gallery walls in my days, I’ve lost count. Lastly, we use simple finishing nails for this because they make small holes and are still strong enough to hold up most frames.Elevate your home by creating the perfect gallery wall. That way, if you mess up, you only have to redo a single nail, not at entire wall of nail holes.

Do one frame at a time and hang each frame as you go. Make sure when doing this you add in the distance that you've determined as your spacing between frames (in our case, 1')Īlso, DON'T do all your nails at once. Whew! Again, this makes a little more sense seeing it in the video, so if that was confusing hopefully the video will help.Īfter your first couple frames, you'll get to a point where you're using other frames as your reference points that your measuring from instead of things like the edge of the wall, a chair rail, or the ceiling. So we placed our first nail 14' in from the edge of the wall, and 10' up from the chair rail. We wanted our frames to have 3' of space between them and the chair rail, so we added 3' to 7' and knew our nail needed to be 10' up from the chair rail. So if you want to be 8.5' from the edge of the wall and the nail is 5.5' in from the side of the frame, the nail will be 14' in from the edge of the wall. To find where to place your nail, you'll need to add those measurements to whatever distance away you want to be from edge of the wall (and in our case, chair rail). Let's say your nail needs to be 5.5' from the sides of your frame, and 7' from the bottom of your frame (I'm giving a bottom measurement since we are doing bottom aligned). Make sure you know how far in from the wall you need to start your frame so that the whole gallery is centered. We started with the bottom right frame and worked our way to the left. It helps to start with a frame that's against your alignment point (so for us, one of the bottom frames since our gallery was going to be bottom aligned). Now that you have your measurements, this part is pretty easy.

We did 1 inch for this gallery wall, but sometimes we will go to two inches in between frames if they are large frames.

Side note, we like to keep spacing as even between frames as we can. There is an imaginary middle line drawn through your gallery wall - some frames go up from that middle line, some go down from that middle line, but the middle line is consistent.Īgain, you could always just do your frames randomly (no alignment involved), but if you're looking for a starting point these are great options. Option 1, Middle Aligned: This option is the most organic looking, but it can easily come off as messy. The tops of the frames form a level line and the bottoms are staggered. Option 1, Top Aligned: This is the method we normally go with. You could probably swing it if you just bought 1-2 frame sizes to mix in. Option 1, Top AND Bottom Aligned: This is harder to do because you kinda need the perfect sized frames. This is what we chose because then there was even spacing between the chair rail and the bottom of each frame. Option 1, Bottom Aligned: The bottoms of all your frames are level with each other, and the tops are staggered. But if you're not sure where to start, here are a few options. There are LOTS of different ways you can lay out your frames, and if you have an artistic eye you can probably just wing it. It helps to sketch out your space and any features of your wall that might affect the frame layout, like the chair rail that was on this wall.

This step is optional, but I like to have an idea of what type of frame layout I'm going to do before I start moving around actual frames on the floor.

Large gallery wall layout with sizes